How to change strut bearings​?

How to change strut bearings?
A grinding noise when you turn the steering wheel is scary. It sounds like metal crushing against metal, and it makes parallel parking a workout. You likely have a seized strut bearing.

To change strut bearings, you must remove the entire strut assembly from the vehicle, safely compress the coil spring using a spring compressor, remove the top mount nut, swap out the worn bearing unit, and reassemble the strut.

Replacing this part restores that "new car" steering feel. However, it involves handling powerful springs, so you need to be careful. I will guide you through the process safely.

What is a strut bearing?

Many people confuse the "strut mount" with the "strut bearing." If you order the wrong part, you will have your car dismantled on a Saturday only to find out you cannot finish the job.

A strut bearing is a specialized pivot point located inside or under the top strut mount. It allows the suspension strut and coil spring to rotate freely when you turn the steering wheel.

I work close to the GSW Autoparts manufacturing floor, and I see these components being assembled daily. A strut mount kit usually has two parts: the rubber mount (which bolts to the car body) and the bearing (which sits under the rubber).

The bearing itself is usually a plastic or metal cage filled with ball bearings or sliding rings. It is a sandwich structure. It has to be incredibly tough. Think about it: this small plastic ring supports one-quarter of your car’s weight.

I remember a customer, a delivery van driver, who came in with a "clunking" front end. He had replaced the rubber mounts but reused the old bearings to save money. Two weeks later, the clunking was back, and his steering was stiff. The old bearings were crushed. He had to pay for the labor all over again.

Here is the breakdown of the assembly:

How strut bearings work?

You might wonder why a shock absorber needs a bearing at all. Rear shocks do not have them, so why do the front ones need this complex part?

Strut bearings work by decoupling the turning motion of the wheels from the stationary body of the car. When you steer, the entire strut assembly rotates, and the bearing acts as the turntable between the moving spring and the fixed chassis.

The front suspension does two jobs: it absorbs bumps and it steers the car. This is where the engineering gets interesting. The strut is bolted to your wheel knuckle. So, when you turn the steering wheel, the wheel knuckle turns, and the strut turns with it.

However, the top of the strut is bolted to the car’s body (the strut tower¹). The body does not turn. If you bolted the strut directly to the body without a bearing, you would be twisting the metal coil spring every time you turned a corner.

The bearing eliminates this friction. It sits at the top of the spring. It takes the heavy load of the car pressing down (axial load) and allows the parts below it to spin (radial movement).

At GSW Autoparts, we test our bearings for "break-away torque." This is the force needed to start the bearing spinning under a heavy load. If the grease inside dries out or dirt gets in, that torque increases. That is when you feel "memory steer"—where the car does not want to center itself after a turn.

The Physics of the Turn:

1. Driver turns the wheel.
2. Tie rods push the wheel knuckle.
3. The strut assembly (damper and spring) rotates.
4. The Strut Bearing spins.
5. The Top Mount stays stationary against the car frame.

How to check strut bearing?

Diagnosing this part is tricky because it is hidden high up in the fender well. You cannot see it without taking the car apart, so you have to rely on sound and feel.

To check a strut bearing, park the car and have a friend turn the steering wheel from lock to lock. Listen for creaking or clicking noises near the strut tower and place your hand carefully on the coil spring to feel for vibrations.

I call this the "Spring Touch Test." It is the most reliable way to find a bad bearing.

Safety Warning: Do not put your fingers between the spring coils. Just rest your palm on the outside of the spring.

As your friend turns the wheel, a good bearing will be silent and smooth. A bad bearing will bind. The spring will build up tension and then release it with a "boing" or a "pop." You will feel this vibration travel right through the spring into your hand. It feels like a stutter.

Another sign is the "Grind." I once inspected a sedan that sounded like an old wooden ship creaking whenever it parked. The owner thought it was the power steering pump². I opened the hood and listened near the top of the strut towers. The noise was loud and clear right at the mount. The bearings were completely rusted solid.

Symptom Checklist:

How to replace strut bearing?

This job requires a specific tool called a spring compressor. Do not attempt this without one, or you risk serious injury from the high-tension spring.

Remove the strut assembly from the car, compress the spring until it is loose, remove the top nut, lift off the mount and old bearing, install the new bearing, and reassemble. Always perform a wheel alignment afterward.

I have done this job many times, and I still treat the coil spring with extreme respect. There is enough energy stored in a compressed spring to punch a hole through a wall.

Step-by-Step Guide:

1. Removal: Jack up the car and remove the wheel. Disconnect the sway bar link and the large bolts holding the strut to the knuckle. Then, open the hood and remove the top mount bolts. Pull the strut out.
2. Compression: Attach your spring compressors to the coil spring. Tighten them evenly. Keep going until the spring is loose and moves freely between the top and bottom plates.
3. Disassembly: Remove the center nut on top of the strut shaft. You might need an impact gun or a pass-through socket set for this.
4. Swap: Take the old mount and bearing off. Inspect the mount. If the rubber is cracked, replace it too. Place the new GSW Autoparts bearing onto the spring seat. Make sure it is facing the right way up.
5. Reassembly: Put the top mount back on. Tighten the center nut to the manufacturer’s torque spec.
6. Release: Slowly loosen the spring compressors. Ensure the spring ends sit correctly in the grooves of the rubber insulators.

Pro Tip: Always replace these in pairs. If the left bearing failed, the right one has traveled the same miles and is likely dry too. Replacing only one side can lead to uneven steering height and handling issues.

Required Tools List:

• Jack and Jack Stands
• Socket Set (Metric usually)
• Spring Compressor (You can rent this at auto parts stores)
• Torque Wrench
• Impact Wrench (Optional, but makes it easier)

Conclusion

It is recommended to check the bearing condition every 20,000 kilometers and use the "spring touch test" to check for abnormal noises and sticking. For vehicles that are parked for a long time, turn the steering wheel 1-2 times a month to prevent the grease from solidifying due to prolonged static operation.

For vehicles that frequently drive in dusty or humid environments, regularly clean the mud and sand from the top of the shock absorber struts to prevent impurities from entering the bearing.
Changing strut bearings fixes annoying noises and unsafe steering binding. Remember to use a spring compressor carefully and always check the condition of the rubber mounts while you are in there.
GSW’s professional services will give you access to high-quality products and a worry-free transaction. Contact us now!

About the Author

Root is a Content & Operations Specialist at GSWAUTOPARTS with 5 years of industry experience. Leveraging his close proximity to our manufacturing floor, Root specializes in documenting product details and production processes. He focuses on translating technical insights about rubber and chassis parts into clear, helpful information for our customers.